Eastern Grit

This is a guide to the gritstone climbing crags and selected boulder problems of the eastern Peak District.

As with the accompanying ‘Western Grit’ guide, the symbols used are the same. Useful crag symbols give an indication as to  - ‘how busy does the crag get’, ‘any restrictions’, ‘exposure to wind’. The individual climbing route symbols include ones indicate the type of climbing required, for instance ‘long reach helpful’, lots of hard moves’ etc. The extended folded cover flap lists al the symbols. The routes are colour-coded according to grade bands, British Trad Grades being used. The bands are - ‘Severe and under’, ‘Hard Severe to HVS’, ‘E1 to E3’, and finally ‘E4 and above’. There are of course routes to suit the beginner right through to the experienced and dedicated climber. The introduction gives some interesting background history of the pioneering days by James Puttrell, through to the names forever associated with the eastern edges, such as Don Whillans and Joe Brown. Environmental considerations, access restrictions, and expected behaviour are also discussed, along with advice to ‘top-roping’ groups.

There is also information on gear requirements, and a chart comparing all the different grading systems. Public transport, climbing shops, climbing walls, and cafés, are listed too.

There is a very impressive total of 2930 routes in the guide. For quick reference an area by area chart lists the number of climbs in each of the four categories to be found at the 19 crags. Symbols then give details of ‘Approach’, ‘Sun’, ‘Windy’, ‘Access’ etc, as well as a summary of the crag and the page number. 

There is a list of ‘graded climbs’ being the result of an ongoing ‘grade vote’ via the rockfax website, along with a list of the ‘top 50’ climbs. The book is divided into sections, these being - Sheffield Area; Wharncliffe and Rivelin. Ladybower Area; Dovestone Tor and Bamford. Stanage; this gets a weighty 91 pages to itself. Burbage Valley: Burbage North and South, Higgar Tor. The Quarries; these are Millstone, Lawrencefield and Yarncliffe. Froggatt and Curbar Escarpment; Froggatt, Curbar and Baslow. Finally Chatsworth Area; Gardom’s and Chatsworth. 

Each section is prefaced by an information page, giving a summary of the crag’s climbing history, any highlights etc, along with approach instructions and a large-scale map. Crag conditions are also commented on, along with the bouldering potential of the site. The page edges are colour tabbed, making it easy to flick through and find a particular section.

Each crag is beautifully photographed, with the routes clearly overlaid. The colour-coded route number is printed alongside the route name. Below which is a summary and a few direction pointers if necessary. Then follows the appropriate climbing symbol and the grade. Names dates of ‘first ascents’ are neatly printed. There is a lot of information to get onto every page, but the book has a neat, legible and uncluttered look.

The colour photos throughout the book (many full page) of the crags, climbing and the landscape, help to give an idea of the characteristics of each area. Photos are by Chris Craggs, and others.

The first edition of this book was published in 2001. This new edition has 100 extra pages, new photos and 900 extra routes, making it an indispensable guide to this important and popular climbing area. All Rockfax guides are printed in England.