Peak NE Pokketz

The authors state that this is a guide to ‘selected easier routes on the eastern edges of the Peak District’. The Derbyshire gritstone edges have a brilliant variety of routes at all grades, and have helped produce some of our greatest climbers as well as attracting climbers from all over the world. They are very accessible, especially from Sheffield, and most only require a few minutes walk to get to the crags. There are routes described in this guide that are suitable for all abilities from the beginner, to experienced climbers.

The routes are colour-coded according to climbing grades, which go from; Severe and under, Hard Severe to Hard Very Severe, then a few routes of E1 to E3 grade to test the best rock athletes. They are also allocated a star rating. The guide contains 489 routes. Climbing crags included are ; Rivelin, Bamford Edge, Stanage Edge, Higgar Tor, Burbage, Millstone Edge, Lawrencefield and Yarncliffe. All these great crags, edges and old quarry faces are within about 12 miles of Sheffield city centre.

The book begins with background information on the climbing areas, and a key to the symbols used within the main section. These are useful and inventive, for instance indications are given as to wether the crag is likely to be busy or not, if it has shelter from wind, if it gets the sun and for how long, the approximate approach time and so on. Symbols are also sometimes used to describe the type of climbing on a particular route, such as ‘technical climbing’, ‘long reach helpful’ etc. Then there is a chart comparing British climbing grades to Sport Grades, UIAA and USA Grades. The page edges have colour-coded tabs according to climbing area, enabling you to quickly flick through to the Stanage, Rivelin section etc.

At the start of each section is a scaled colour map, indicating the crag and parking. There is a summary of the climbing area, highlighting its character. This forms an honest appraisal advising of potential problems as well as highlights. Midges and even grit-loving ants can sometimes hamper the would-be climber. Yarncliffe seems particularly prone to this, with climbs named: ‘Ant’s Arete’, ‘Ant’s Crack’ and ‘Ant’s Wall’, with ‘Aphid’s Wall’ thrown in for good measure. If that all get to much for you, you could resort to ‘Cocaine Place’ at Rivelin, followed maybe by ‘Cold Turkey’ on Stanage. Unfortunately some of the parking areas suffer problems with car thieves; the book giving out particular warnings when this is the case. Details of the best approach walks are also given. The routes themselves are neatly overlaid onto colour photos of the rock.

The colour-coding of the climbs into the three broad categories makes it easy to select a suitable route for your ability. Grading of each route is clearly shown, along with comments giving directions and pointing out any particularly difficult moves etc. Finally, this neat, well produced guide ends with a route index and an area location map. The authors also provided the photos and diagrams. A lot of information in one small book.