Western Grit

This is a guide to the gritstone climbing crags of the western Peak District, with crags also included in Lancashire and Cheshire. Bouldering routes are also included.

As with the Rockfax Pokketz guides, the symbols used are the same. Useful crag symbols give an indication as to  - ‘how busy does the crag get’, ‘any restrictions’, ‘exposure to wind’. The individual climbing route symbols indicate the type of climbing required, for instance ‘long reach helpful’, lots of hard moves’ etc. The extended folded cover flap lists all the symbols.

The routes are colour-coded according to grade bands, British Trad Grades and Bouldering Grades being used. The bands are - ‘Severe and under and V0 and under’, ‘Hard Severe to HVS and V0+ to V2’, ‘E1 to E3 and V3 to V6’, and finally ‘E4 and V7 and above’. There are of course routes to suit the beginner right through to the experienced and dedicated climber. There is a also a detailed chart comparing all the different grading systems.

Information is also given on accommodation within each of the areas, as well as background information on gritstone climbing, sections on gear, ethics, and what to do with ‘top-ropers’.

There is an impressive total of 2405 routes in the guide. For quick reference, an area by area chart lists the number of climbs in each of the four categories to be found at the 37 crags. Symbols then give details of ‘Approach’, ‘Sun’, ‘Windy’, ‘Access’ etc, as well as a summary of the crag and the page number. 

Another list is of 450 graded climbs, being the result of an online ‘grade vote’. This goes from the appropriately named ‘Appointment with Death’ - E9 on Wimberry, (the crux is described as ‘pulling on a pebble cluster followed by a slap for a sloping ripple!’). I’m sure if you’re reading this, that will make sense to you. At the other end of the scale is ‘Downfall Climb’ - Mod, Kinder Downfall (described rather dismissively as an ‘aquatic amble’. Even I’ve done it and didn’t get wet).

The climbing areas covered by this guide are: Staffordshire, with the crags being situated in the western Peak District, along the Roaches, Hen Cloud and Ramshaw Rocks. The next section covers the crags of Windgather, just south of Whaley Bridge.

The Kinder Scout section has climbs along the northern and southern edges as well as Kinder Downfall. Further north is the Bleaklow and Longdendale area, with climbs on Shining Clough and on the other side of the valley at Laddow Rocks and Tintwistle Knarr. There is also a (probably) lesser known spot, Hobson Moor Quarry, just to the east of Staleybridge. 

The Chew Valley section has routes on the Wimberry side of the valley, then along Dovestone Edge. Also included are routes in the nearby Dovestone Quarry and Ravenstones, further around the valley. On the other side of the Dovestone Reservoir, the guide is concerned with the crag of Alderman Rocks. Leaving the Peak area, the guide concludes with a section on crags in Lancashire and in Cheshire, where there are Red Sandstone routes, notably at Helsby and nearby Frodsham.

Each section is prefaced by an overview map of the area, showing all the crags within that section. The page edges are colour tabbed, making it easy to flick through and find a particular section. Prior to the climb pages for each crag, there is a page showing a larger scale map, with footpaths. A summary of the crag is given, along with parking and detailed approach directions. The likely condition of the climbing with regard to the time of year and weather is also discussed. 

The crags are beautifully photographed, with the routes clearly overlaid. The colour-coded route number is printed alongside the route name, below which is a summary and a few direction pointers if necessary. The length of the route is given in meters. Then follows the appropriate climbing symbol and the grade. Where known the person who made the first ascent is indicated, along with the date. There is a lot of information to get onto every page, but the book has a neat, legible and uncluttered look.

The colour photos throughout the book (many full page) of the crags, climbing and the landscape, help to give an idea of the characteristics of each area. The authors took a lot of the photos, along with quite a number of other contributors who are listed in the book.

The first edition of this guide won the 2004 Outdoor Writer’s Guild Guidebook of the Year Award. The new edition is even better with more photos, five more crags and 300 more routes. What’s more, Rockfax always have their books printed in England.